Machine Problems
Sewing Needle Size Chart (Printable PDF-Friendly)
The short answer
Pick the needle size by fabric weight (smaller numbers for fine fabric, larger for heavy) and the needle type by fabric structure (ballpoint or stretch for knits, jeans for denim, universal for most wovens). A size 80/12 or 90/14 universal covers most beginner projects.
Last updated September 2026
What's covered6
This sewing needle size chart PDF page puts the sizes, fabrics and needle types on one page, laid out so it prints cleanly. Use your browser's Print option and choose Save as PDF to keep a PDF copy next to your machine. Below the chart you will find how to read a needle package and how to pick a size when you are between two.
Sewing needle size chart PDF: sizes by fabric weight
Needles carry two numbers: metric first, US second. A larger number means a thicker needle.
| Size (metric/US) | Fabric weight | Example fabrics | Typical thread |
|---|---|---|---|
| 60/8 | Very fine | Silk organza, fine batiste | Fine or lightweight thread |
| 65/9, 70/10 | Light | Chiffon, voile, lawn, lingerie fabric | Fine all-purpose thread |
| 75/11 | Light to medium | Lightweight knits, shirting | All-purpose thread |
| 80/12 | Medium | Quilting cotton, poplin, broadcloth | All-purpose thread |
| 90/14 | Medium to heavy | Heavier cotton, linen, fleece, corduroy | All-purpose or slightly heavier thread |
| 100/16 | Heavy | Denim, canvas, upholstery fabric | Heavier or topstitching thread |
| 110/18 | Very heavy | Thick denim seams, heavy canvas, several layers | Heavy thread |
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Sizes above 110/18 exist but are mainly for heavy-duty or industrial work. Always check your manual for the largest size your machine accepts.
Sewing needle size chart: needle types
| Needle type | Point | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Universal | Slightly rounded | Most woven fabrics and some stable knits |
| Ballpoint (jersey) | Rounded | Knits such as jersey and interlock |
| Stretch | Medium ball, special eye and scarf | Very stretchy fabric, spandex, swimwear, activewear |
| Jeans / denim | Sharp, stiff shank | Denim, canvas, tightly woven heavy fabric |
| Microtex / sharp | Very sharp | Microfiber, silk, batik, precise piecing and topstitching |
| Quilting | Tapered, sharp | Piecing and machine quilting through layers |
| Topstitch | Large eye and deep groove | Thick topstitching thread, or two threads at once |
| Leather | Cutting point | Real leather only (it cuts, so avoid it on fabric and vinyl) |
| Embroidery | Larger eye, special scarf | Rayon and polyester embroidery thread |
| Metallic | Large eye | Metallic thread that tends to shred |
| Twin (double) | Two needles on one shank | Parallel rows, knit hems; check your machine supports it |
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How to read a needle package
A needle pack usually shows the needle type, the size (for example 80/12), and the needle system. Most home sewing machines use the 130/705 H system, which is the standard flat-shank household needle. Some specialty machines, such as some sergers and many coverstitch machines, use other systems, so check your manual. The Schmetz Needle ABC explains every marking in detail, and the sewing.org needle charts are another printable reference.
Choosing between two sizes
- Start smaller for fine fabric. A smaller needle leaves smaller holes. Move up if thread shreds or stitches skip.
- Go larger for thick layers. If the needle bends, the machine thumps, or the needle breaks at seams, use the next size up or a jeans needle.
- Match the eye to the thread. Thread should slide through the eye freely. If thread breaks or frays, try a larger size or a topstitch needle.
- Test on scrap. Sew a short line on two layers of your fabric before starting the project.
Print or save the sewing needle size chart PDF
- Open your browser menu and choose Print.
- Pick Save as PDF (or Microsoft Print to PDF) as the printer.
- Set the layout to portrait and turn on background graphics if you want the table shading.
- Save the file, or print one copy to keep in your sewing box.
When to change the needle
Change it at the start of each project, after hitting a pin, or as soon as you notice skipped stitches, snagged threads, or a popping sound as it goes through the fabric. A worn needle is the most common cause of skipped stitches and a frequent cause of thread that keeps breaking. More symptoms and fixes are on the sewing machine problems hub.
FAQ
What do the two numbers on a sewing machine needle mean?
The first number is the metric size and the second is the US size, for example 80/12. Both describe the same needle. Bigger numbers mean a thicker needle.
How do I save this needle chart as a PDF?
Open your browser's Print option and choose Save as PDF (or Microsoft Print to PDF) as the printer. The chart tables print on standard letter or A4 paper.
What size needle should a beginner use?
A universal 80/12 suits most quilting cotton and medium woven fabric. Keep a 90/14 for heavier cotton and a ballpoint pack for knits.
Does needle size depend on thread?
Yes. Thicker thread needs a larger needle or a larger eye, such as a topstitch needle. If thread shreds or breaks, try the next size up.